The Commander’s Coin
Hi everyone,
First off I have to apologise for my last mail / post. Apparently most of you didn’t find it as amusing as I did writing it. I have no excuse, I am an idiot.
Since then things have been busy. That night there was lots more artillery, firing illumination flares, and heavy explosive (HE) into Pashmul, which this FOB overlooks. Pashmul is where the heavy fighting in Operation Medusa took place recently, and it is still active. Yesterday morning I was up early to follow Chief of Land Staff General Leslie, the top dog, big boss of the Canadian Army. He arrived the previous nigh, which is why I haven’t been able to email or file photos, as it was deemed a bad idea to announce his presence. Fair play to the General, he slept outside on a cot in a sleeping bag just ike the rest of the troops, ate MREs, and drank the bad coffee. He spent hours yesterday walking up to the various Observation Posts to meet the soldiers stationed here, and I chased him around the whole place, which he didn’t mind at all. He spent a lot of time asking questions about possible improvements to equipment and issued kit, and the soldiers felt at ease enough to make some interesting suggestions. He then sat atop a peak and was talked through the story of the fighting while having the various locations pointed out to him. Boy, if a Taliban sniper had only known who the bloke on the hill was………
As usual I made up a CD with the pictures I had shot of him, and gave it to one of his staff. I always try to make sure that the people I have photographed out here get a copy, and the soldiers love it. They all have cameras, and some of them are pretty damn good with them, but usually they are too busy doing their job to get the really good stuff, which of course is them doing their jobs. So, the General was no exception, but he found the time to thank me personally, and insisted I shake his hand. In his hand he had concealed “The Commander’s Coin,” which only he can give, and tradition says it must be transferred through a handshake. So now it’s mine. It is a big hunk of metal, golden coloured, but not gold I’m sure, with red enamel, and has the Canadian Army’s emblem set in it, and pretty cool looking. He said it’s not worth anything, but if I’m ever in trouble and Canadian troops are there, show them the coin and they will take me in. I was impressed that he took the time to make this gesture, and I can see why all the soldiers and officers hold him in such high regard. We spent about 10 minutes talking about the importance of having embedded media with the military, and wanted to hear my thoughts, and I felt I was being mined for information too, just like the soldiers he spoke to.
In the afternoon there was a contact (fighting) with the Taliban, or somebody, in Pashmul, and as soon as it came over the radio I rushed up to a vantage point to see what was going on. There had been small arms fire, and some possible mortars fired, and I was just in time to see the second of two 500lbs bombs being dropped on the suspected Taliban’s position. That pretty much stopped the fighting, as those bombs don’t leave many survivors.
Then it was time for the barbecue. Every few days the camp gets in fresh food, and everyone gets some real food, and a huge morale boost. We had grilled chicken with spices, a hot dog with fresh bun, and some potato salad. It is amazing how something so ordinary can so suddenly seem so special. The soldiers all sat around eating and chatting, and even though everyone was wearing body armour and covered in sand and dust, you could have imagined yourself at the greatest party in the world.
Later in the day I went back to one of the Observation Posts to photograph the guys at dusk. The light here is just amazing, and the sandy mountains turn the most stunning golden colour as the sun sets, turning to purple before the light dies. I tried shooting some stuff through the troops Night Vision Goggles (NVGs) but it is a nightmare. I ended up doing some slow exposure by the light of the almost full moon. Then we watched a jet fighter criss-cross the area of the earlier fighting. He dropped some flares, and then various bases started also firing illumination. It was a very pretty firework show. Then I had to face the walk back down the rock. There is still that viper around, and everyone is paranoid about it. The troops are pissed off, as they have been told they can’t shoot it if they see it, just get it with a shovel or their bayonet. And worse, there is no anti-venom available on base, so they have been told that if they get bitten they have to put a tourniquet on themselves and then they will be taken to hospital by helicopter. It seems unreasonable to them,. And walking down it seemed unreasonable to me too!
I climbed into bed I the dark, and again had a crap nights sleep. A convoy came in to camp in the middle of the night, and when I woke I though I was being strangled. My inner lining moves inside my sleeping bag, and it is similar to trying to wrap yourself up in a tight sock, and then get comfortable. But it is really very cold at night, so I have no choice.
This morning I was up early, 5:30am, and had breakfast with the same guys at the same OP. They have to man the post all night obviously, but it really must be cold up there, as it is very exposed to an extra wind chill factor.
Then it was off on a patrol with the omelette guys. Well that’s what their called, but it’s actually the OMLT (Observer, Mentor, Liaison, Training) team, and they work closely with the Afghan National Army, helping them to improve. It was a long walk out of a village, through some fields, over a lot of walls, through some vineyards (where you can’t see your footing and there are more snakes) and back into the village. It is still hot here, though not as hot as it was when I was here last, and with my body armour I was exhausted by the time we were finished.
I’ve been editing and sending for the last few hours, so if you check out www.gettyimages.com, and go into editorial, then news, and search mchugh, you can see for yourselves. Now I’m off to find an MRE and some coffee, before my next mission. Speak to you all soon.
John D